#interrail2026 - day 2: across the Low Countries to Schleswig Holstein

It's time to catch up with the trip now that I'm back, so let's do just that... 

Early morning, Antwerp, and my first intention was to deal in a little nostalgia. But isn't Antwerpen Central just a little special? There's some outstanding architecture (and a very convenient zoo). And, as a place to start your journey in earnest, it's so much of an improvement on any of the Brussels stations.

Sadly, it was early, and I had miles to go before I slept. The obvious route to my intended destination would be via Amsterdam and a series of German high speed trains but where's the fun in that? And so, I was off on the 8.35 EuroCity Direct to Lelystad Centrum. Except, where was it? There was an 8.35 EuroCity Direct to Almere Centrum, which was in the right direction, and there was supposedly a connection that would work, so that was going to have to do.

But why Lelystad, capital of Flevoland? Many years ago, when I was still doing international youth politics, I attended a LYMEC (Liberal and Radical Youth Movement of the European Community) Congress there, which was one of the stranger events that I'd ever been to. And, whilst nostalgia isn't what it used to be, I thought that it would be nice to go back, if only to see if the place had changed much.

It hasn't. When I was there the first time, it had the architecture you would expect from an era when brushed concrete was fashionable and it still does. The town was en fete though, crowded with people selling their surplus possessions in the pedestrian shopping arcade that is the centre of the town. Apparently, this is part of the Koningsdag celebration, and that's what was going on.

I didn't stay long - I had trains to catch, first to Zwolle and then to Deventer, where I stopped for a quick walk. Deventer was unexpectedly charming, and they were clearly getting ready to have a good time, with a stage set up in the central square and plenty of orange clad people with beer. I might have to go back there sometime...

Onwards to Osnabruck, and another quick explore, before what was supposed to be the penultimate train of the day to Hamburg, which is where things started to go wrong, thanks to Deutsche Bahn. My connection lost by mere minutes, I took the opportunity to take a walk across Hamburg, skirting the Binnenalster, passing the incredibly impressive City Hall and making the train to Flensburg with enough time to spare to allow the purchase of a surprisingly good chicken sandwich.

Flensburg was dark, and quiet, but it had a hotel bed, and I'd survived the first full day of travel. It was going to be alright...

Hamburg - I may have to come back here

Having been a bit harsh on German fashion sense, I ought to balance the ledger a little. Fortunately, that isn't too difficult.

I've spent the morning pottering around the city, as only an Englishman can, and a very charming city Hamburg is too. And before anyone reminds me, I gave St Pauli and the Reeperbahn a wide berth, although I very much suspect that it has changed somewhat since its 'glory days'.

The Hauptbahnhof is, as is often the case in big German cities, very imposing and full of retail opportunities, but the walk from there, through the shopping area is very pleasant. I took a slight detour to admire the Binnen Alster, the southern end of the lake which stretches north-east from the city centre, before passing the Rathaus, a very impressive structure.

But my destination was Hafen City, the newly developed dockland area, full of museums, culture and new apartment blocks. The old warehouses, presumably rebuilt after World War II, have been left, mostly for commercial use it seems, with new blocks built between them and the Elbe. It's all a bit like the London Docklands used to be in the early days, a bit desolate and slightly dead, but by putting the new Elbphilharmonie building there, it might well develop into a vibrant neighbourhood.

The weather hasn't been so nice here in Hamburg, which perhaps doesn't help, but I like the contrast between the stylish apartment blocks on one side of the Elbe, and the gritty, industrial port on the other. And with a university campus at one end of Hafen City, and a smattering of interesting restaurants and bars, I think that they've done a better job here than we did in London.

It's an easy city to get around too, with buses, U-bahn, S-bahn and the odd ferry too, and I think Ros might like it. I'd better add it to an increasingly long list then...

In search of something so very German

Ah Germany, the home of beer and wurst and people in leather shorts with braces. And so, naturlich, I am in a bar. With beer. And weisswurst mit sweet mustard. Fortunately, there appears to be nobody in leather shorts, although an accordion player would be tolerable. Nobody has smuggled in a flugelhorn, nor are beer drinking songs being sung... yet (the night is still young though).

I freely admit that it didn't take very much to tempt be from my hotel, very nice though it is. When you have an entirely new city to explore, U-bahn to ride and things to see - the Rathaus looks as though it might repay a visit in daylight - it seems like a terrible pity to stay in a sanitised, could be anywhere really, chain hotel and eat in an 'international' restaurant devoid of atmosphere.

Here at the Brauhaus Joh. Albrecht, there are four regular beers on tap plus a seasonal special. I am fortunate enough to have caught the Winterbier, dark and cloudy, and really rather good. I've even got a nice table for people watching, which is good, although the wooden bar stools are a mite uncomfortable (some upholstery and a little cushioning would be nice, guys!).

Hamburg appears to have a lot of water if the number of bridges is anything to go by, and I'm looking forward to having a wander around tomorrow - there may be more beer involved - before I catch an afternoon train tomorrow.

But first, pork. I've ordered my schnitzel, a second beer is due any moment, and it's looking like a very nice evening...