Saturday, November 23, 2024

Deep in the Balkans, a long weekend in Albania...

I have now established a tradition that birthdays with a zero in them merit a trip to somewhere new and, potentially, exciting. Admittedly, it's a tradition that might not get much of a run, given that I'm now officially in my sixties, but nonetheless, if in twenty years I report back from Luanda or Dili, you'll know that I'm still in decent form.

But, given that we're been doing a lot of travelling, I wasn't going to be quite so ambitious for this particular celebration. And, I'd heard a lot about Albania - apparently an up and coming destination, now served by British Airways - so, for my seventy-third country, it seemed like a decent choice.

Albania does suggest a rather darker corner of Europe, and its reputation for blood feuds, poverty and isolationism perhaps doesn't appear very inviting, but I'd booked us into a nice hotel - of which more later - and we'd made a few contacts in advance, which offered some reassurance. After all, if somewhere turns out to be truly awful, you can always hide out in the hotel and get some light pampering.

The weather wasn't great when we descended through a rather murky sky into Mother Teresa International Airport - she's a bit of a national hero here, even if she was (whisper it quietly) actually born in modern day North Macedonia. We cleared immigration and customs quickly and found a taxi to take us to the hotel. So far, so good.

Our hotel turned out to be part of the new Air Albania Arena, a rather snazzy facility which, despite appearances, holds the national football stadium. On the outside, expensive shops, cafes and restaurants, with anonymous large gates scattered amongst them which lead to the various sections of the stadium. The tower on the left is the hotel, a Marriott, and we were on the twenty-third floor, virtually at the top.

Our room wasn't ready - we were a bit early in truth - but we were invited to sit in their M Club lounge whilst it was prepared, so no problem there. We were told about the happy "hour" with free drinks and snacks from 5.30 until 8.30, which sounded promising, and invited to call in at any time of day or night to pick up soft drinks or snacks, which sounded even better.

And, soon enough, the room was ready. Nice room, amazing view across Tirana and over to the low range of hills which separate the city from the Adriatic Sea. Admittedly, as usual, there were more buttons to control the lights and even the curtains than I would ideally like, but very nice all the same.

It was time for a little explore, so we walked into the centre of the city. I will admit that, if you're coming in the hope of enjoying some historic architecture, Tirana is likely to disappoint, as it wasn't really anywhere of significance until it became the capital in 1912. And, to be honest, the Stalinist design which did go up after World War II isn't likely to draw impassioned architecture students any time soon.

It was a pleasant enough orientation though and with night falling and the lure of free drinks, we headed back to our hotel. We'd just settled in when there was a knock on the door. Outside was a nice man with... cake and a card.

Yes, they were marking my birthday with what turned out to be a stunningly rich chocolate cake, more than enough to share between the two of us - note the healthy fruit on top - with a convenient sign made out of more chocolate.

And that's why, when you sign up for a hotel chain's frequent guest programme, you give them your birth date...

As we ate our cake, in anticipation of a pleasant evening in the M Club lounge, I relaxed. Everything was going to be just fine...

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