A day by the seaside, Albanian style

Whilst Albania isn't exactly a big place - just over two hundred miles from north to south and less than one hundred from east to west - it isn't entirely easy to get around. There are, theoretically, at least, trains, but once you leave the major highways, the road system is sub-optimal and the mountainous terrain means that straight lines are few and far between. But Tirana is pretty central and there is a shiny new highway linking it to Durres, the country's main port and access point for ferries from Italy. It's also a city with a history dating back to to the 7th Century B.C.

Sunday dawned bright, sunny and mild, so why not go to the seaside for the day? Now, normally, this would involve me scouring the internet for public transport options but, frankly, there's little in the way of readily available information, time was short given that the sun would set at 4 p.m. and taxis are quite reasonable, we organised a taxi to take us to the seaside. Admittedly, I hadn't given any thought as to how we might get back but...

And for approximately £25, we were whisked to the promenade overlooking the Adriatic Sea. The sun was shining, and myriad Albanian families were out enjoying themselves. Not in the water, or on the beach, because the water wasn't that inviting and what beaches there are are somewhere else, but there's a swish hotel nearing completion (a Crowne Plaza for those interested in such things) and a sense that more visitors would be welcome.

There are plenty of reasonably priced fish restaurants and coffee shops, and it was nice to idly stroll along the shore.

Durres is also famous for something that wasn't rediscovered until the 1960s, its Roman amphitheatre, thought to be the largest every built in the Balkans and capable of holding 15,000 enthusiastic citizens for gladiator fights and the like. It is open to the public but it would be fair to say that it hasn't been developed to the extent that a similar attraction elsewhere might be. What that means is that there isn't much in the way of signage, access is a bit treacherous but it is cheap to visit.

You'll also notice that it has been encroached upon somewhat, the disadvantage of having nobody appreciate that it was there. And maybe, at some point, someone will remedy that but in the meantime, it's still pretty impressive.

By now we were in need of sustenance though. Fortunately, like so many Southern European countries, there's always a readily available sweet treat, and we were able to find a café which served good coffee and an even better piece of cake. Mmmmm... cake...

But it was time to head back to the capital. I had booked a table for dinner...