Sunday, September 21, 2014

Tallinn it as it is, on the geopolitical frontline...

It has been remiss of me not to report on our visit to Estonia, and now that I have a bit of time at my disposal, I really feel obliged to remedy that oversight...

With Sweden, Ă…land and Finland behind us, it was time for the last leg of our journey, starting with an admittedly slightly tedious ferry crossing, courtesy of Viking Line. For Ros, it was a trip into the unknown, although I had been before, some years earlier. However, this time, we were not alone, as an old friend was already planning for our arrival.

Regular visitors to Lib Dem Blogs will be familiar with Cicero's Songs, a blog which, in my humble opinion, offers a uniquely liberal perspective on life in what the Russians see as their 'sphere of influence', i.e. an independent country which they think they can bully and get away with it. James, its author, is extremely well-connected, erudite and rather a lot of fun, and having heard that we were coming to town, had generously offered to show us around. 

The entrance to the Hotel Telegraaf
Having taken the precaution of booking into a rather nice hotel, the Hotel Telegraaf - the headquarters of the Estonian telegraph service when the First Republic was formed - we were ready to go.

A stroll around the Old Town was the first order of business, with its cobbled streets, medieval architecture and general loveliness, as we talked politics, Europe and of how Estonia 'works'. Given the debate about the viability of an independent Scotland, the fact that Estonia, with a population of about 1.3 million, punches well above its weight on the international stage is a reminder that, if you are willing to work collaboratively and take pride in your achievements, size is less important than will.

It was a valuable reminder that a belief in a national identity need not be insular, that sovereignty can be pooled without necessarily giving away what makes you a people, and that politics can engage rather than repel.


The Old Town itself, and especially Toompea, or Castle Hill, is insanely wonderful, in a not quite gingerbread, rather human way. The walls have survived mostly untouched, money is being spent on refurbishment - much of it now done - and the shops filled with interesting things. It is also, for the more financially savvy, much cheaper than Scandinavia, with restaurant prices for some really excellent food very approachable.

It looked like we were going to rather enjoy Tallinn...

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